From an inventory of Milanese high life
Exquisite encounters with Italian opulence and down-to-earth charm in the heart of Milan
Exquisite encounters with Italian opulence and down-to-earth charm in the heart of Milan
The train ride from Paris to Milan took seven hours to complete, but it was, in a way, a fleeting one.
The landscape of the Lombardy region passed by me through the train window in one sweeping motion, highlighted by a few images in my mind: arc of peaks drawn by the Italian Alps, the lush greenery of agricultural land, and small wooden and stone houses dotting the countryside.
It was in deep contrast to what I was about to experience in the city of Milan.
I knew this much was true when I finally arrived at the Milano Centrale railway station, where its glass train sheds enveloping high ceilings of a building made of stone welcomed me. Its hallways were adorned with sculptures of winged horses and eagles and occupied by rows of retail stores for the lowly passenger.
As I ascended from the platform to the main hall, I heard that sweet rolling of the tongue present in the chatter of Italians around me.
It had this rhythmic quality with a natural rise and fall in pitch, which gave it a sing-song quality to my ears. There was a melodious cadence to it, a distinctive feature of the Italian accent.
“Buongiorno,” a barista says to the elderly man walking up to the counter of a café at the station entrance.
“Ciao,” says a woman in heels, blowing a kiss to her lover before boarding a train to another city somewhere.
In a land where the language was meant to enchant and beguile, the city of Milan proved everything it was known for and more: the face of modern Italy with a touch of cultural splendor that never goes out of style.
Lessons in geometry and interiors at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
Milan, located in the northern region of Italy, is the capital of the Lombardy region and is one of the country’s most important economic, cultural, and fashion hubs.
Even to the untrained eye, the city itself exudes two personalities that surface unexpectedly in every corner. At best, they mingle together so much so that they blur the fine line between what is historic and what is modern.
An alpha global city, Milan is never short on people, power, and prestige. There is a waft of opulence in the air, one that is palpable when you walk its streets and waste time in its shopping districts.
The Milanese are undoubtedly the cornerstone of the city’s upward mobility. Residents of this city don’t simply adhere to fashion trends; they actively shape them in every little way. Even in their unguarded moments, they give off a remarkable sense of style, which transforms Milan’s streets into a perpetual fashion runway.
Even mighty Rome, the national capital, is in a ceaseless squabble with Milan. It is rumored that for every church in Rome, there is a bank in Milan. While Romans would brand the Milanese as materialistic and living in a bubble, the Milanese would simply retort that those in the capital are dirty and corrupt.
Milan has often been viewed as less enchanting than some of Italy’s major cities because of its huge concentration of financial enterprises and industrial background. And yet, its allure lies in a more subtle charm treasured by the locals, waiting to be discovered.
A leisurely stroll through the city center quickly reveals that Milan exudes not only modernity and the future but an aura of elegance and sophistication.
I woke up one April morning with a short itinerary in mind. The first order of the day: rush to the iconic Piazza del Duomo, where everything in Milan comes together in waves.
I started my journey below the ground in the rushing coaches of Metropolitana di Milano to the Piazza del Duomo station.
After navigating the concrete labyrinth of the station, I followed a horde of fellow passengers spreading themselves across different exits until I arrived at the bottom of one staircase winding up to the ground.
And then there it was, in all of its Gothic architecture dominating the Milanese cityscape: a gigantic cathedral of Condoglian marble with spires pointing up to a cloudless sky, its pinnacles seemingly commanding its own flying buttresses and intricate tracery window panels that formed an imposing façade before me. It was the Duomo di Milano.
The imposing Gothic interiors of Duomo di Milano.
Observing a portion of Piazza del Duomo from the top of the Cathedral.
Top: The grand entrance to Galleria Vittorio Emanuela II.
Bottom: The view from the cheap seats at La Scala
Hundreds of pigeons sat on the Equestrian Statue of Victor Emmanuel, only to take flight above the growing crowd in front of the cathedral.
To the left, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II stands tall with its majestic arch that welcomes the incoming crowd to its extravagance. As the oldest mall in Milan, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II houses luxurious brands that fashion pilgrims from all over the world seek.
The arcade is a geometric spectacle of black and gold. Wrought-iron arches and glass vaults form a grand dome in the middle where tourists frolic around and disappear into their respective boutiques.
There was no escape from its grandeur. I kept on looking up at the large dome and its immediate scope adorned with intricate mosaics and frescoes.
The Galleria connects Teatro Alla Scala (La Scala), the city’s famed opera house that is regarded as the most prestigious opera house in the world. The following evening, after loitering around the Piazza del Duomo, I watched Jacques Offenbach’s Les Contes d’Hoffman at the La Scala, where I saw the entire chamber ornamented in red and gold.
Much has been said about the way opera tells a story through music and vocal artistry, but as the protagonist reached a crescendo, I showed myself the exit as I walked the cobblestone streets to a nearby coffee shop at Piazza Cordusio.
From the top: The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci at the Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Statua di Leonardo da Vinci guarding the vicinity.
The maestro Leonardo da Vinci is said to be a beloved adopted son of Milan, having produced some of his greatest works in the city.
One morning, I hurried to the Santa Maria delle Grazie, a Dominican convent. After going through a row of galleries, I entered a dimly lit chamber where the plain stone walls seemed to heighten the importance of what was about to be revealed. My eyes slowly adjusted to the lighting as I caught a glimpse of the expansive painting.
The scene depicts Jesus Christ and his disciples during their final meal before his crucifixion. On the painting, each figure was elaborately detailed, their body language conveying a range of emotions—from bewilderment and disbelief to sadness and heartache.
“The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci was much larger than I might have thought, spanning an entire wall of the chapel.
Even in the dark, it was clear that its colors have waned with time, but its artistic flair and projection remained intact more than ever. I stood there motionless for a short while, allowing the gravity of the moment to take hold, that I had an opportunity to witness the masterpiece up close.
The iconic Rondanini Pietà by Michael Angelo
Top: An iconographic aspect of the Castello Sforzesco, Colorful fabrics in one of the many courtyards of the Castello Sforzesco.
Bottom: People watching by the Porta Sempione.
My next destination led me to the Castello Sforzesco, a medieval castle that now houses several museums and art collections. Leonardo da Vinci himself frescoed several rooms, most notably the Sala delle Asse, within the castle complex when he worked as an artist for Duke Ludovico Maria.
I went to the Pinacoteca di Brera, an art gallery displaying an exquisite collection of paintings by Italian masters, including works by Raphael and Caravaggio. I also came across the Museo d’Arte Antica, which showcased sculptures, decorative arts, and historical artifacts that offered a glimpse into Milan’s past.
Stepping outside into the castle’s Sempione Park, I found a haven within the bustling city. The park’s greenery, winding pathways, and tranquil air gave a stark contrast to the imposing cityscape.
Top: A light and a delightful serving of risotto alla Milanese. When in Milan gelato.
Bottom: A plate of authentic pizza from Ristorante Pizzeria Dogana.
Trying out the cuisine in Milan provides a delightful journey into the heart of the Italian palate.
While Milan, a global city, is known for its high-end dining and Michelin-starred restaurants, the food scene comes alive in the vibrant Brera district, where cobblestone streets line their way past stylish cafés and enticing trattorias.
The food scene hums loudly at the traditional Milanese trattoria, where the scents of freshly baked bread, aromatic herbs, and simmering sauces waft through the air. Rustic wooden tables are ornamented with checkered tablecloths, and soft, ambient lighting creates spaces for intimacy.
Throughout my stay, I sampled a variety of Italian food from pizzas, carbonara, focaccia, and gelato, among others. But it was the risotto alla Milanese that was the star of every table.
The saffron-infused risotto, with its golden hue, is a signature item that the city is known for. Arborio rice, saffron threads, onion, and a touch of Parmesan cheese come together to create a dish that is comforting yet sophisticated.
One bite is enough for the saffron to impart a sweet and earthy flavor with a subtle bitterness that balances the creaminess of the rice. The Parmesan cheese adds another layer of depth. It is truly a symphony of flavors, one that plays tricks on one’s taste buds.
My stay in Milan was indeed a fleeting one. I made sure to return to the Piazza del Duomo, my personal reference point to the entire city.
One day, I walked beyond the Duomo di Milano and realized I had ventured a little farther. I was at Via Monte Napoleone, an upscale shopping street in Milan and Europe’s most expensive street.
Just when I thought Milan could not get any more conspicuous, I was presented with a street lined with flagship stores and boutiques of some of the world’s most prominent and luxurious fashion brands.
People came in and out of the stores, flashing their high-end accessories ranging from handbags, shoes, sunglasses, to jewelry.
For a moment, I imagined what it was like to be part of that circle. I was in Milan after all, living a transient story that was meant for the top one percent, those who revel in all things shiny and new.
I was thrilled to live that high life in my mind until reality hit me like a truck when one couple carrying shoeboxes emerged from a Versace store, went straight to a parked Lamborghini on the side of the street, and drove off, disappearing right around the corner.
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