El Nido: Paradise State of Mind
In El Nido, paradise is more than a place of hidden coves and pristine shores- it’s a state of mind that you harbor even long after you have left the island.
In El Nido, paradise is more than a place of hidden coves and pristine shores- it’s a state of mind that you harbor even long after you have left the island.
The ATR 72-600 aircraft keeps its pace in the air, the gray clouds commanding the blessing of rainfall. I lower my gaze from the plane window, counting the green islets that sprawl across the body of water. I reach the number twenty-eight.
An hour into the flight, the aircraft begins its descent into the coastlines of Lio Beach, a slice of the island where the sole airport of El Nido is. In the descent, a scene unfolds like a short reel from the small circular window: the color green sprawling the limestone rock formations, the afternoon sun hitting the turquoise waters, and four people tossing a ball in a makeshift volleyball court by the shore.
The first thing I do upon setting foot on the island is remind myself how indifferent I am towards the ways of the sea. A city boy at heart, I know little of places with the warmest weather, salty waters, and tropical fruits galore.
But this is El Nido I am in, the world-famous destination in Palawan that has become the talk among sun-kissed travelers through the years. Certainly, I do not speak the mother tongue of thalassophiles, but I feel that the island would reveal its quirks and secrets to me in time.
Driving towards El Nido town on a rented tricycle, I pass by people of all ages conversing along the small roadsides, unbothered and in no rush to get anywhere. There’s laughter in one corner and there’s chatter in the other. And even as a complete outsider, I am welcomed in for some fresh coconut cocktail by the seashore or included in the street-side banter among the locals.
After all, the island is a holy Shangri-la for beachgoers and wanderers seeking their form of an uncomplicated tropical life. It is as clear as the waters of Lio Beach that many of those who come with a paradise state of mind are doing just fine, sun, sand, and all.
In the western cradle of the Philippines lies the Bacuit archipelago, a constellation of over 45 islands and islets, adorned with limestone cliffs and majestic greenery. Among these islands is El Nido, a coastal town that is known for its sandy beaches, incredible lagoons, and splendid resorts.
Though El Nido is a first-class municipality, it still holds the mantle of a place where the hours go past slowly. I drop by my hotel along Rizal Street and walk to the El Nido Beach, a good 10-minute stroll that gives me a glimpse of the commercial rise in this town. Despite El Nido’s slow rhythm, this haven has also seen a blossoming of life in recent years, as travelers from all corners of the globe have been crossing this island destination off their to-do lists.
El Nido welcomed more than half a million visitors in 2023, drawn to its shores like moths to a flame. To accommodate this growing wave of wanderers, a diverse array of establishments has sprung up, each offering a unique slice of paradise.
If there is one concession to the paradise state of mind, it is the fact that you know you will always be in the company of the trendiest food places even in the middle of a tropical destination. I hold on to this belief as I map out the next cafes and restaurants I will go to in the next few days.
Taste El Nido, a plant-based café along Rizal Street, boasts freshness of ingredients, each serving a burst of flavors as vibrant as its colored walls. I grab a smoothie bowl—a serving of fruits, nuts, and seeds that almost feel like the purest of the island’s natural offerings. The campfire chickpea wrap also entices my tastebuds. Smoky, hearty, and not too spicy.
Tucked in a corner near Osmeña Street is Cusina Charitos, a quaint Filipino restaurant that serves all the familiar dishes that our childhood kitchens are made of. Feeling much better, I go for a plate of pork sisig, its sizzle filling the air with the aromatic scents of garlic and onion, and that touch of citrusy tang. Charito’s sisig, crispy and flavor-laden, is always a celebration of Filipino culinary ingenuity. Kare-kare, richly simmered in a peanut-based sauce, is comfort food at its most indulgent. With a miniature Philippine flag in the middle of the bowl, the kare-kare’s tender pieces of meat blended with vegetables in this hearty, heartwarming dish, a true taste of home with each spoonful.
At night, Big Bad Thai along C. Hama Street comes alive on the second floor of a building with its loud music and lively crowd. I secure a wooden hanging table on the balcony as I observe the commotion down below: young foreign tourists crawling out of pubs and locals smoking nearby a coffee shop. The Pad Thai arrives in a riot of colors, its noodles twirled with a mix of vegetables and shrimp. Accents of lime put it to life. The plate of cashew chicken is also a great pair: the tender chicken pieces in a shining sauce goes well with the crunch of roasted cashews.
For dessert, I grab a cone at D’Factory Lio Beach: the tartness of the passionfruit gelato is savored. The tang from the fruit lingers for a minute in my tongue as I sit on the sand and watch families and lovers stroll the beachside.
Island-hopping in El Nido is the voyage to partake in to explore the expanse of the Bacuit archipelago even in small niches. One morning, I arrived after dawn at the sandy shores of El Nido Beach to meet our guide.
Dan, our guide on the boat ride, cheerfully bids for our small group and welcomes us to the embrace of the islands.
“When I say ‘Hep, Hep,’ you say?” he says to our group.
“Hooray!” our little bangka replies in unison.
The sail begins with what is known as Helicopter Island. Dan says it is named so because of the peculiar shape that strongly resembles the rotor blades of a helicopter frozen mid-air. It is difficult for me to see the alleged shape from our current position, but I am caught by its dramatic cliffs that rise from the ground, while the edges are softened by lush, emerald-green foliage hanging onto them.
Everybody talks about the Big and Small Lagoons and for good reason. These lagoons are essentially the postcard representation of what El Nido is to the curious stranger. Under the sun, I kayak the entire stretch of the Big Lagoon as its waters transform from deep blue to emerald green.
What a day it is to be in the embrace of the lagoons, a world in themselves, framed by towering cliffs of limestone that seem to rise majestically into the distance. In the lagoons, the water is so clear that I can see the vibrant coral gardens underneath, teeming with life.
I paddle towards the adjacent body of water and the Small Lagoon, an even more intimate scenery. I snake myself in the small crevices and patches of mangroves, finding shade under the rock formations to catch my breath. From here, the only sounds I hear are the soft splashes of my paddle, the call of a bird nearby, and the chatter of Korean visitors posing in the clear waters.
And on a good day, the Hidden Lagoon reveals itself somewhere nearby. Accessible only by swimming through a narrow, keyhole-like crevice in a rock wall, it is hidden away from the ocean, its entrance resembling a small doorway.
I compose myself as I enter the narrow pathway, avoiding the sharp edges of the rocks. The water carries me to the other side. I marvel at the pool that is surrounded by immensely tall limestone cliffs, forming a sort of natural enclosure.
With a raised voice, I spew random words into the air. My voice echoes, bouncing off the karst walls inside.
Catching a last one in, I finish hopping from one lagoon to another and walk to the town. I heave my trusty bag onto my back and make my way towards one of the many stores lining the C. Hama Street. At this time, the town of El Nido is teeming with life as many Caucasian and Korean visitors make the next transaction with the locals inside the bars and shops.
I disappear into the growing crowd at the intersection of Rizal and C. Hama Streets. There seems to be a commotion that goes on here every hour. Beer bottles are exchanged and espresso shots are consumed. Behind the gathering, the El Nido beach lies almost completely still.
Before grabbing something for dinner, I muse over why something feels this good and, overwhelmed, I just take it all in. At the end of the day, being in paradise is a state of mind. It will be hard to leave this place nonetheless. Sun, sand, coral – they’re all here. For a moment, we visitors are all here too – though, keenly aware, not for long.
The sun sets slowly overhead, elongating the shadows on the sands. Sometimes I wonder if I should overstay my welcome in this little paradise.
In the early hours of tomorrow, I will be shuttled to a place known as the Island of the Sun, somewhere in Bacuit Bay. My busy mind is carried across open seas. Still enamored by this coastal town, I harbor notions of more pristine beaches, tropical forests, and finally, silence.
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