A Spirited Symphony in Four Movements

Orchestrate your Hong Kong trip today and hearken to the city’s marvelous melodies


Words by Angie Duarte
Images by Gabriel Dela Cruz 


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I must confess, I don’t normally start my pieces with a quote. Somehow, doing that takes me back to high school, blank composition paper and ink-stained pen on my desk, my nerves rattled under the steely gaze of my English professor, waiting for me to write that default derivative first line. Yet the quote compels me this time.

The excerpt goes: “The earth has its music, for those who will listen.” While often wrongly attributed to Shakespeare, the lovely line is from The Magic of Sound, a poem by Reginald Vincent Holmes, whose work—save for that particular piece—was largely considered obscure and, in truth, unremarkable. That bit from the poem’s last stanza, however, is bright with the melodies of a thousand destinations. You see, anyone who has traveled enough will tell you: each place has its own marked, multisensory “music” that makes for an immersive, inimitable experience.

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Hong Kong is no different. The bustling megalopolis—once known as the Pearl of the Orient and the Gateway to Asia, and now, as Asia’s World City—has fascinated travelers, the world over, for its charming confluence of timeless traditions and contemporary, cosmopolitan character. This is the sound of the city; its symphony, played beautifully for all to hear: rooted in rich heritage, Hong Kong is home to a captivating culture, exciting eats and engaging entertainment, fun-filled frolic for the whole family, and adventure-packed activity—whether it's your first visit, or you’ve walked its busy streets a hundred times before.

I was happy to be there, by gracious invitation of the Hong Kong Tourism Board, to hearken to the city’s invigorating orchestrations—especially coming out of my pandemic-induced, almost three years in dreary shelter. 

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A scintillating sonata in all-things epicurean

Hong Kong has always been a beloved destination for its exciting epicurean adventures; it has been a Mecca of mouthwatering flavors for as long as any food aficionado can remember. Its very name literally means “Fragrant Harbour,” attributed to British colonists who, on their arrival in the mid-1800s, smelled a wonderful fragrance throughout the port. The name was eventually used to refer to the whole island, so the story goes, and it really is no wonder. To this day, appetizing aromas waft through the streets and back alleys, putting even the strictest of diets to the test. At just about every corner, you will find a noodle shop, dim sum stall, bakery, or a stand selling the city’s famous egg waffles; best of luck trying to resist temptation!

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Perhaps one of the best places to savor the city’s gastronomy and revel in its raved-about nightlife is in the downtown area of Central District, a gem in Hong Kong’s urban revival efforts. This gentrified part of town has morphed into a hip, happening hub for the trendy set, while hanging on to its old-world appeal. This to-the-minute vibe, marvelously melded with a homey sense of heritage, is evident as you walk through the locale’s narrow, hilly streets, supercharged with a zeal for life.

Central is an eclectic, energetic amalgam of posh restaurants, bohemian bars and stylish speakeasies, pubs packed to the rafters, artisanal shops, and upscale apartments, interspersed with hawker stalls, hole-in-the wall establishments with local sundries, kiosks brimming with traditional Chinese remedies, and the like.


Having gotten a tad lost (an easy enough misstep, considering many of Central’s finest establishments are tucked away in unassuming, cobbled alleyways, embraced by artsy graffiti walls), we stopped for directions at a local store. An expat hipster, maybe in his early 30s, asked where we were headed and pointed us in the direction of our destination—Neighborhood, a well-known restaurant in the district, just off Hollywood Road. He, too, owned a nearby restaurant he added, but encouraged us to stick with our plans all the same, as it would still benefit the community. That brief encounter clued us in on what makes the locality unique: Central is held together by a strong sense of place and an intense passion for it.
 
Having heard quite a bit about Neighborhood, chef and restaurateur David Lai's latest venture, we looked forward to a leisurely, lovely dinner at the multi-awarded contemporary European bistro. The menu typically changes weekly, and is heavily influenced by market-fresh and seasonal ingredients; but diners are assured a fine, flavourful, fabulous feast, each time.


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As we had hoped and anticipated, everything we ordered was well-worth of the accolades (the bistro has been listed on the Michelin Guide and among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, to name two of many achievements). But the most radiant star at our dinner table was the Smoked Seasonal Fish straight from the market, smothered in a delicately-spiced white wine cream sauce, with petite potatoes, and cherry tomatoes to provide a tangy contrast to the overall richness of the dish. Given that Hong Kong is a coastal city, foodies can expect the freshest, most succulent of seafood, when dining out at its reputed restaurants.

After dinner, we walked up and down the steep streets, admiring the urban art and the mix of contemporary and classic architecture. Had we arrived earlier, we could have taken the opportunity to duck into the newly-revitalized Central Market. Having first opened in 1842, the refurbished market has become a much-loved community haunt, with over 250 retail and artisan stalls. That’s on my list for next time, for sure. 

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Yayoi Kusama's wax likeness and mini Infinity Mirror Room at Madame Tussauds Hong Kong is indeed a virtual treat; Hong Kong's renowned Victoria Harbour and a glimpse of its iconic harbor-side cityscape.

The enthralling adagio of arts and culture

Hong Kong has long been lauded as one of Asia's major capitals of culture and the arts, thanks to its profound cultural history and unique artistic flair. Hundreds of art galleries and museums dot the city; a creative playground in which collectors and aficionados of visual art can keep up with the latest from local and international artists, alike. From Artlane's eye-catching street murals in Sai Ying Pun's trendy district, artistic nooks and crannies at Old Town's Police Married Quarters (PMQ) and its surrounding streets to Tai Kwun's (the Former Central Police Station Compound) indoor and outdoor spaces in Central District, and The Mills' quaint, art-filled shops and cafés in Tsuen Wan—among many others—Hong Kong holds its own as an artful destination.

The most enriching development in this arena is the recent opening of top-rated venues dedicated to artistic and cultural expression. West Kowloon Cultural District is home to a number of these spaces, and is integral to Hong Kong's role as a center for culture and creativity. By far the grandest additions to the roster of cultural cribs in the district are the M+ Museum and the Hong Kong Palace Museum.

I was particularly excited to visit M+, given the special ongoing exhibition of Yayoi Kusama—a personal favorite artist with her famed, super mind-bending Infinity Mirror Rooms—at the time of our trip. The state-of-the-art exhibition space for contemporary art opened in November 2021 and has been drawing acclaim since. 

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With 33 galleries and three cinemas (of 40, 60, and 180 seats) spread across 18 floors and a total floor area of approximately 65,000m², M+ is one of the largest exhibition spaces in the world. Its sleek slate-and-steel aesthetic, clean and contemporary lines, expansive halls and high ceilings reminded me of a futuristic bunker—aptly so, for this is a sanctuary, of sorts. M+, at its core, is a modern-day refuge; a sanctum for art and for those who seek the calmness and catharsis art brings.

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Hong Kong Palace Museum

Hong Kong Palace Museum—opposite M+ and across the expanse of the verdant West Kowloon Art Park—on the other hand, is a remarkable collection of traditional Chinese arts and culture, featuring over 900 of the finest artifacts from the Palace Museum in Beijing, as well as objects from other prominent international cultural institutions. Having opened in July 2022, the museum attracts hundreds of visitors, daily, both local and foreign, most of whom are eager to learn about history through works traversing 5,000 years. Treasures on display in the museum’s nine galleries span 25 categories, including painting and calligraphy; bronze, ceramics, jade, and metalwork; enamelware and lacquer; costumes, textiles, and jewelry; and rare books.

The entire stretch of the West Kowloon Cultural District is a destination, in itself. Facing the renowned Victoria Harbour, beginning at Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, the promenade (along which the museums and art park are located) is abuzz with activity, at any point of the day or night. People come to watch the dazzling Symphony of Lights multimedia show, nightly, at 8pm, as well as to take in the vibrant vistas and vivid views of the cityscapes and iconic ferries and junks. They come to see the charming Clock Tower and the statues of celebrities that comprise the Avenue of Stars, as well as appreciate the various sculptures and art installations on parade throughout the length of the boardwalk—my goodness, even the waiting sheds are pretty! Xiqu Centre, a world-class performance facility built to showcase and promote local arts and culture—specifically, Chinese traditional theater, Cantonese opera, and regional xiqu forms—is likewise visible from the harbor.


"Hong Kong has long been lauded as one of Asia's major capitals of culture and the arts, thanks to its profound cultural history and unique artistic flair."


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MUSEA Art Mall

Another “must-visit” venue in this area is the MUSEA Art Mall for its carefully curated array of luxury retail brands, vertical gardens, topnotch architectural design, and amazing interiors. While Hong Kong houses numerous high-end shopping malls, this particular one is truly something special. An acronym for Muse by the Sea, MUSEA boasts an impressive Grand Atrium, with its Theatre Oculus, an organic vaulted ceiling made of a network of 500 non-identical branches. The tunnels embrace two 23-foot-wide skylights; the Gold Ball, a 10m-wide multi-faceted dome which is actually a spherical event space; and the "I Hope..." installation by Japanese visual artist Chiharu Shiota, which comprises six steel ships sailing through a “storm” of red rope and thousands of handwritten blessings, suspended on a steel truss 20-meters aboveground.

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Every nature-lover’s majestic minuet

Now, in a city as busy and buzzing as Hong Kong, it is easy to think that it’s all about the concrete jungle—it certainly lives up to its dynamic reputation as one of Asia’s hottest seats of commerce and industry. But this major megalopolis isn’t entirely citified. Hong Kong has a lusher, more laidback side, too. In fact, around 40% of Hong Kong’s 1,108 sq km is still designated as countryside or country parks, and is home to a wide range of plant and animal species.

A trip up its quintessential attraction, Victoria Peak, is all you need to see how green Hong Kong still is. At 552 meters above sea level, The Peak, as it is also called, is the highest point on the island and affords breathtaking views of Victoria Harbour, the Kowloon Peninsula, and the rustic romance of the surrounding lush, craggy mountaintops.

By night, the panoramas transform into storybook scenes of twinkling lights from the skyscrapers down below. The Peak’s hiking trail, which takes roughly 1-2 hours to traverse, from point to point, is a stunning showcase of flora (such as bamboo, elephant ears, ferns and spike mosses, coral trees, orchids, and many more) and fauna (including a variety of birds, small amphibians, and even some wild boar!). We went on a drizzly day, and while visibility was limited by the thin veil of rain, that did not dampen our spirits. There was still much beauty to be had, especially as the fog rolled in, lending a mystical, ethereal effect to the scenery.

With a thrust towards all-things “athleisure,” there are bike trails, parks, activity and athletics centers, sports arenas, and the like all across the island. Hong Kong also has an active cricket scene, and plays host to a number of international events as well as to other sporting tournaments throughout the year. 

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A rousing rondo in F(un)-major

One aspect that definitely makes Hong Kong a destination of choice for travelers, especially for people in the Asia-Pacific region, is its family-friendly atmosphere. Fun-filled entertainment is in store for everyone in the family, whether you’re five or 55.

At The Peak Tower, near the summit of Victoria Peak, there’s a branch of the world-famous chain of wax museums, Madame Tussauds. Millions of people have passed through the doors of Madame Tussauds since it originally opened in London over 200 years ago, to satisfy their curiosity about their cherished celebrities, as well as to enjoy some shameless selfie snaps!

The Hong Kong branch opened in 2000, as Asia’s first Madame Tussauds, and now features nearly 100 wax statues in different interactive themed settings. Visitors can delight in “meeting” their heroes from various industries and settings like Hong Kong Glamour, Music Icons, Fashion Zone, K-Wave Zone, World Premiere, Culture and History, Animated World, Art Gallery, The Champions, Kung Fu Zone, and Historical and National Heroes. Don’t be shy about taking those selfies; I surely didn’t hesitate!

After you’ve explored Madame Tussauds Hong Kong in its entirety, you may want to head on over to the Monopoly Dreams Café at The Peak Galleria, a shopping complex at Victoria Gap, also in proximity to the summit. The café, which is the world’s first Monopoly-themed eatery, is every board game lover’s dream-come-true where, among other amusing activities, guests can grab as many banknotes as they can to exchange for snacks.

Meanwhile, at MUSEA Art Mall, LEGOLAND® Discovery Centre Hong Kong is a creative and productive way to spend a few hours with your child in tow—adults must be with at least one child to gain admission. With a range of 10 exciting LEGO®-themed play areas, LEGOLAND® Discovery Centre offers a day of active play—whether it’s going on a ride and discovering Merlin’s magical potion room at Merlin’s Apprentice; rescuing the princess on a magical journey at Kingdom Quest; exploring MINILAND®’s fascinating replicas of Hong Kong’s most eye-catching buildings and landmarks, built from over 1 million LEGO® bricks (I couldn’t get enough of this); hanging out at Heartlake City with LEGO® Friends; attending a workshop at the Master Builder Classroom; catching a short movie at the 4D Studio; or just creating and building at DUPLO Farm and Magic Bikes.


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Of course, it is impossible to speak of “fun-tertainment” on the island without mentioning Hong Kong Disneyland. We explored the amusement park on beauteous Lantau Island on the first leg of our trip, and I have penned an account of our time there in a separate article in this issue. Billeted at the Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel, no less, the days we spent at “the happiest place on Earth” were, indeed, magical. If you haven’t come across the famous Disney tagline at some point in your life, then you, dear reader, have most likely been living under a rock so large it would test Hercules’ mettle.

Since the opening of the first Disneyland theme park in July 1955, in Anaheim, California, the brand has made good on its motto—over and over and over again, across nationalities, genders, and age groups. The Hong Kong Disneyland Resort complex, which opened in 2005, is no different. In 2021, the company’s annual corporate report reflected a whopping cumulative attendance of 88-million visitors to the park. Consider the happiness scale tipped, exponentially. While the happy vibe is the core of its existence, it also bears mentioning that Disneyland plays a huge role in tourism to Hong Kong; pandemic notwithstanding. 

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Denouement, in subtle sophistication

Before we knew it, our great Hong Kong getaway was winding down; the orchestra was playing their last few measures, for the time being. The privilege extended by Cathay Pacific, our carrier of choice for the trip, to spend our pre-departure back to Manila at their exclusive Wing Business Lounge at the Hong Kong International Airport proved a subtle and sophisticated denouement, to the six-day spirited sojourn.

Sipping on my sauvignon blanc (my third, to be more precise) while relishing my bowl of freshly-cooked noodles and dim sum from the lounge’s Noodle Bar, an adage came to mind. And, since I started this with a quote, I suppose I may as well end in a similar vein. There is an old saying credited to French writer and critic Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr: “The more things change, the more they stay the same.”

While the proverb is often used sardonically and critically, there are situations that defy the original intent. In the case of Hong Kong, for instance, it is a good thing—a great thing, even. After all, no matter how dramatically things change all around this well-loved city, its charm and its character, bound to customary ways, are the main reasons travelers stay tuned to its sweet, sublime symphonies. 

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