Savor the Seduction of Miss Ruby’s Secret Sanctum
With its intoxicating identity, Ruby Wong’s Godown will draw you in irrevocably.
With its intoxicating identity, Ruby Wong’s Godown will draw you in irrevocably.
Simply put, Ruby Wong's Godown is more than a vivacious venue with a whole lot of attitude. It’s a total vibe unto itself.
Within the Admiral Hotel Manila – MGallery, the 1930's Shanghai-inspired speakeasy and restaurant exudes an air of covert allure, reminiscent of the Prohibition era's hidden haunts of heady high living. Your brain goes into sensory overdrive, in the best possible way. In true speakeasy fashion, you enter through a secret door, behind an imposing bookcase at the hotel's quaint library, tucked away in an unassuming corner of the Grand Lobby. A rush of anticipation courses through you, as you push aside the oversized shelf of neatly stacked books and step into a dimly lit anteroom; this only serves to heighten the air of mystery. Through thick red curtains, you make your way into a hidden lift, which you can actually take all the way down to the speakeasy. But please, walk past the lift and take the stairs, especially if it’s your first visit. This way, you get a bird’s-eye view of the stunning scenes that await you within Miss Ruby’s wonderland.
The grand wood-and-iron rustic staircase, bounded by vintage-on-purpose brick walls, transports you into Miss Ruby's mysterious milieu one step at a time. A riot of colorful lanterns lights your way and draws your gaze to the opulent opium den-inspired place, brimming with intrigue. Truly, there's way more to this godown (a haphazard waterfront warehouse, popularly located street-side or below ground of the docks) than initially meets the eye. A delightful sense of decadence permeates the air, swirling with the savory smell of soup in a sultry yet sinister symphony.
“Who is Ruby Wong, and why am I so utterly drawn into her den?” I ask myself. I'm not sure just yet, but I am antsy to find out.
While mixology is at the heart of Ruby Wong’s Godown (it is a speakeasy, after all), this is way more than your average cocktail joint—it’s a posh portal to another dimension. Who is Ruby Wong? I still don't know for sure, but she's beginning to look more and more like a time-jumping, smooth-operating woman of power with a checkered past and more than a couple of stories to tell.
Every corner of Miss Ruby’s place is a tableau of quirky-meets-quintessential Old World charm, from the eclectic selection of elegant oriental furniture and the ornate hanging lanterns to the walls adorned with chinoiserie, cheery and curious alike: mounted bowls and platters, lucky charms, sepia-toned portraits, striking decoupage-style murals, and so much more. A cobbled path flanked by ornate antique-chic warehouse-type doors of wood and iron grating takes you across the entrance way through the Noodle Alley into the magic and mystery of Miss Ruby’s speakeasy. Here, my ruminations run riot—a vivid vignette plays out in my mind’s eye and the very walls seem to vibrate with the secrets they hold, whispers of a bygone time that only Miss Ruby knows.
The ambiance is every bit mind-blowing. Picture a clandestine chamber, a la opium den, only ultra-sexy, suave, and sophisticated. The place oozes feminine mystique and sultry sensuality, juxtaposed with decidedly masculine elements, like plump leather couches and handsome dark wood-and-leather armchairs in cigar lounge fashion. Recessed booths, enclosed by sheer red drapes, afford greater seclusion and intimacy. A booth with a vaulted door is available to VIP guests. As with the foyer and entrance areas, a gamut of chinoiserie bedecks the space—from paper dragons and parasols to traditional Chinese window panels, red-lacquered fixtures, Oriental urns, gilded candelabra, and many such curio items. Smoky jazz and tasteful-meets-titillating dance tunes fill the room; at the Noodle Alley, the ambient sounds of Shanghai’s bustling streets overlays piped-in music and wafts above tables and chairs, melding with the mouthwatering scent of roasted meats and hearty meals.
Matthieu Busschërt, General Manager at the Admiral Hotel Manila- MGallery
“The Accor team and our F&B experts at the regional and global levels came up with the concept of Ruby Wong’s Godown after many brainstorming sessions, not only for the name and the culinary offerings, but also for the atmosphere. We always try to be social and local, and what better concept than a Shanghai 1930s warehouse theme bar, with us being located so close to Binondo, the oldest Chinatown in the world, and its vibrant Filipino-Chinese community? We are also very close to the port area and the docks, which is where you typically find this type of underground warehouse. In this way, Ruby Wong’s Godown makes perfect sense, given the hotel’s locale,” shares Matthieu Busschaërt, General Manager at the Admiral Hotel Manila – MGallery.
I chime in, with emphatic agreement: the concept totally works and is a smashing success, not only for its proximity to Chinatown and Manila’s ports, but also for its immediate location, underneath the very artsy, stylish Grande Dame that is the Admiral Hotel, itself a radiant remnant of another epoch.
Quentin Renard, Executive Assistant Manager-F&B and Engineering
Of course, the crux of the Ruby Wong experience is its masterful mixology. “Ruby Wong’s Godown fits perfectly with the MGallery’s brand pillar to design one-of-a kind experiences in mixology for its guests. When you stay at an MGallery hotel, you can expect to experience one of our major touchpoints, which is that we have great bars. We also have great bartenders who will not only sell you alcohol, but will also listen to your stories, and even ask you how you feel and maybe create you a cocktail that will uplift or enhance your mood or take the edge off if you’re having a rough day,” Busschaërt explains.
At Miss Ruby’s glorious godown, crafty cocktails (many of which are made with the finest locally produced spirits) are a pleasurable priority, as well as a prominent passion. Crafted with precision and panache, each libation is a sensorial experience in its own right, intoxicating from the initial aroma to the last drop. Every sip takes you to a realm of opulence and over-the-top enjoyment, with flavors as exotic and flair as enigmatic as Miss Ruby herself.
“We create cocktails based on the balance, the experience, and the combination of flavors while keeping things as straightforward as possible. Our bar team is very creative, and they create from the perspective of what Ruby Wong herself might create from the identity of the brand,” Quentin Renard, the hotel’s Executive Assistant Manager-F&B and Engineering, points out. “The theatrical aspect we add to our cocktails, the different flavors we bring forth with each drink, and even the dishes we recommend as cocktail pairings… R&D is crucial to all that. We devote a lot of time to delivering the best Ruby Wong experience for our guests. This is Ruby’s place and we are all just working to represent her,” he adds.
Fiery Dragon
Lanzhou Lamian
Among the signature cocktails, the Fiery Dragon proved my favorite. Made with bell pepper, lime, and grapefruit infusions, mixed with a base of Mezcal Durango, this drink packs a punch. A dash of firewater tincture gives it a nice heat that you feel in your throat; the Sriracha salt-rimmed glass amplifies the feeling. And, because it is gently smoked in a cloche, elevating the mezcal's roast-y agave profile, Fiery Dragon boasts a depth of flavor like few other cocktails. I also thoroughly enjoyed the Bukayo Mon Amour, a robust and tasty blend of sweetened coconut strips infused with Sailor Jerry spiced rum, coconut, lime juice, and a few drops of sesame oil for an especially umami mouthfeel. The drama of Green Opium Heaven likewise piqued my interest, made with jasmine-infused Roku gin, Tanqueray No. 10 gin, and sage-infused Mancino Blanco vermouth, served with a sage cigarette clipped to the rim of the glass. Wow, just wow!
Who is Miss Ruby, and why do I find myself hankering for the next glass or goblet as I write this? For all I know, she sailed the Seven Seas on a trading galleon, stopping at each port to pick up a potion or two, to craft cocktails that awaken the senses and ignite the imagination.
Clockwise from top: Loic Brun, Executive Sous Cafe; Sticky Rice Wings; Green Opium Heaven.
Miss Ruby’s place is also a haven for foodies looking for their fix of customary Chinese flavors with a contemporary approach. With a choice between more filling meals at Noodle Alley or elevated Bar Chow at the speakeasy, there’s something for every appetite. Much like the cocktails, every dish is carefully curated to scintillate the senses and please the palate, with only the freshest locally sourced ingredients going into each menu item.
“We always focus on quality across our 30+ dishes. As often as possible, we use high-quality local ingredients to support our sustainability efforts. Aside from our authentic Chinese dishes with a modern twist, we offer a number of creative fusion options that combine Chinese flavors with influences from other cuisines,” Loic Brun, the hotel’s Executive Sous Chef, notes. “We have a variety of dishes from all over Southeast Asia, all curated to match the overall theme of the place,” Chef Loic says.
Here is where you gorge on a steaming hot bowl of Lanzhou Lamian, aromatic braised beef brisket stew with springy egg noodles, beef dumplings, and bok choy, seasoned in the perfect blend of Chinese five-spice and anise, served with chopped garlic, chives, and celery. The Chow Fun, with its appetizing medley of crispy beef, perfectly cooked flat rice noodles, swathed in a satisfying spice mix of chili, garlic, and black pepper, is another bestseller.
I relished the Salted Egg Prawn dish, for its super sumptuous tiger prawns coated in rich and flavorful salted egg, leeks, and herbs. Popular starters include the Sticky Rice Wings, honey-coated chicken wings cooked in rice wine, over a bed of sticky rice, bamboo shoots, and shitake mushrooms, seasoned with Chinese five-spice, served with ginger honey sauce, Bang Tang, plump chicken lollipops made with chili, garlic, and plum sauce; and the decidedly more adventurous Bull Frog, stir-fried buttermilk-battered frog legs seasoned in Chinese herbs with garlic sauce.
The menu brims with everything from beautifully braised dishes and bougie bar chow to scrumptious stir fries and succulent seafood, so take your time. Miss Ruby won't mind. I ask myself yet again, who is Ruby Wong? Honestly, whoever she is, she knows her food! She's soulful like that.
Yes, Ruby Wong’s Godown is a place of marvel, magic, and mystery. Behind the shroud of secrecy is Miss Ruby herself, undoubtedly an enigma. I find myself in a quandary, as I try to put my finger on what makes her tick, yet wanting the mystery to last for much longer. Amidst the shadows, one truth shines: the indomitable spirit of Ruby Wong transcends time and tantalizes tastes. And even just a brief moment in her enchanting embrace will leave you yearning for more.
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