BANGKOK:

Rediscovering Bangkok

Writer Carlos Maglutac and photographer Gabriel Dela Cruz committed to the challenge of not going to the usual places in this quaint-yet-dynamic capital

words by Carlos Maglutac
images by Gabriel Dela Cruz

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SOMETHING OLD
Silom Road. This road was the introduction of the first outsiders into the Siam of old. As a traditional fish landing, the population had gone into this thoroughfare to buy, to trade and to mingle with their neighbors. Now, the trees have been replaced by electric posts, the paths into various intertwining Soi, and the hills transformed into modern buildings.

Sukhumvit Road. The Sukhumvit road is over 300 kilometers long and extends all the way to Cambodia. There are sections and stretches with specific types of stores. You can’t miss the luxury hotels along this road, from the JW Marriott to the Westin, including the Sheraton where we had our dinner that first night. Some intersections have convoluted traffic controls that I certainly couldn’t make out, but it’s an organized form of chaos that you see in every big city, whether its Bangkok, Jakarta, Manila or even Singapore.

Khao San Road. Starting 4 p.m. daily, Khao San road is restricted to only pedestrians and the people come from every part of the globe. An eclectic collection of budget hotels and internet cafes fight for space with the streetside vendors that have setup makeshift stalls, selling anything from jungle knives to the ubiquitous “all I got from Bangkok” t-shirts, interspersed with spots of tattoo artists and barber shops. Here, you can get anything from a power bank, to an iPhone-controlled drone, to a drunken Englishman.

SOMETHING NEW
The Bai Pai Cooking school. It was established by Eakpoom, or Khun Mick and Ruchaneevan Indragarunwet. Khun Noi is the powerhouse behind all the kitchen effort, and her measured movements reveal enough to know that her 15 years of experience cover all the training going on. The school is located in a quiet part of town and the training stage is set slightly higher than the preparation tables, with a large mirror hanging above them, putting these prep stations to good view. A one-day, three-hour crash course that prepares four iconic Thai dishes is also offered. On our session, we prepared a feast of chicken with cashew, Thai beef salad, classic pad Thai and water chestnuts in coconut milk.

Address: 8/91 Ngam Wongwan Road, Soi 54 Ladyao, Chatuchak Tel: +66 (0)2 561 1404)

The Jam Factory. Most residents and most commercial activity is located on the east side of Chao Praya. The “other side of the river” as the west side is referred to, has seen a blossoming of late, and more boutique establishments have been mushrooming to draw more people into this enclave. The Jam Factory hosts a plethora of dining options and visual elegance. From a tree-lined avenue, you enter a compound centered around a large banyan tree. Surrounding this central courtyard is a collection of galleries, home décor stores, a coffee shop and Duanggrit Bunnag’s design office. Known in architectural circles as the quintessential architect of more than one too many resorts and high rises in Asia, he holds fort here. He opened up The Jam Factory to provide a most cool, warehouse chic destination.

Address: 41/1-5 Charoen Nakhon Road, Khlong San, Bangkok 10600, Thailand, “on the other side of the river.”)

SOMETHING BORROWED
Bangrak market. It stretches along the Charoen Krung road and leads out to the bay, as it sits in a reclaimed area. Traditionally a flower market, it has ballooned into a dry goods and wet market with an exploding population of other curio shops and restaurants. Some of the restaurants and food stalls are considered now as institutions. Prachak Roasted Duck has been around for over a century and access is through an iconic wooden door proudly displaying its year of establishment in 1909. Another store displays its desserts which have been prepared there daily for the last 80 years. It's tight, it’s crowded – but it’s alive.

Address: Charoen Krung Rd., Bang Rak, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500 Thailand

Here, you can get anything from a power bank, to an iPhone-controlled drone, to a drunken Englishman.

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Chinatown. On our visit, the sun had set and we were walking along a boulevard awash in linoleum tables and plastic chairs. This spot in town has been around since the 18th century and manages to maintain its unique identity. A cursory walk-through reveals a host of gold shops selling anything from bracelets and necklaces to headdresses. The more consistent feature is that on every corner, a restaurateur plies his wares in a loud voice while the chattering masses manage to order through the cacophony of Thai and Chinese-speak. The best we can do is just soak this all in and buy a few odds and ends. As for myself, I get to bring home some flat cured meats fresh off the grill.

Address: Along Yaowarat and Phahurat districts, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100, Thailand

Or Tor Kor Market. CNNGo in one of its reviews has ranked this as the 4th best fresh market in the world and for good reason. As you enter through any of several pathways, what welcomes you is a clean floor, and the fresh scent. On one row, a collection of dried fish organized into neat layers. Towards the other end, an assortment of grilled food including an interestingly flat and boneless roast chicken. From curries to noodles, it’s all here. Off to one side, there's a true farmer’s market with one section dedicated to the different varieties of rice in all its colors. There is also a dry goods section with a healthy selection of different Thai chili, tamarind and garlic pastes, properly packed in bottles and marked in both English and thai. One section allows one to dine with tables laid out in straight rows and benches. It’s truly a local’s favorite, as we hardly saw tourists. One thing’s for sure, it’s as fresh as it gets.

Address: Kamphaengphet Road, Bangkok 10900, Thailand (Chatuchak)

SOMETHING BLUE
Klong Lat Mayom. This is one among the many floating markets traditionally associated with Bangkok. The one difference here is that there are hardly any foreigners, except for the occasional group that hire a boat to chug slowly along the tributaries. Our own river trip took us along ever widening tributaries that narrow into little streams as we head towards a lotus pond. The lotus grow in profusion here, with their flowers in full bloom in the noonday sun. There are still the iconic floating kitchens preparing the bowls of noodle soup, pad thai and one even serves up freshly cut coconut for the juice and meat.

But the real action is on shore. Stalls of every imaginable dish from curries to deep fried crispy shrimp are spread across a covered area. Neatly organized into the types of produce for sale, there is the area for vegetables and meats but the largest area by far are the cooking areas for traditional Thai food. Tucked away at the end is a grilling area specializing in snakehead and large fresh water fish, caked in salt and grilled over hot coals. It would be nice to spend an entire day here, as one can have breakfast, lunch and dinner here without having to leave, but we had to, and there lies the blues.

Address: Soi Bang Ramat, Bang Phrom, Khet Taling Chan, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10170, Thailand

The real action is on shore, where stalls of every imaginable dish, from curries to deep fried crispy shrimp, are spread.

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