WORDS BY WILFRED MARBELLA
IMAGES BY GABRIEL DELA CRUZ
PUBLISHED AUGUST 9, 2021
I cannot pinpoint when I first read about Matterhorn and its snowcapped mountains. All I can remember was that it was a celebrated mountain and that it is probably the most popular peak in that part of the Swiss Alps.
To get to Zermatt, the jump off point to reach Matterhorn, we had to take a train ride for a little more than two hours from Geneva to Visp, and transfer to the train that goes all the way to Zermatt. Apparently, Visp is the district where Zermatt belongs to. But the two hours go by quickly because of the beautiful countryside view of Switzerland.
Unfortunately, some of the images will have to be committed to memory because the train was going so fast that my hand was not ready for a snap all the time when the beautiful locations appear. Going back to my attempts, there were quaint villages in valleys; terraced orchards at the side of stonehouses; totally charming mountains; then a part of Lake Geneva, also known as Grand Lac would make an appearance too; but the two castles on two different occasions were absolutely magical. These really should be in maps and travel guides of the train, in case people are interested to explore these areas.
As we head to Visp, Swiss punctuality can never be faulted. If transportation says it leaves or arrives at 10:18, that’s 10:18. It is so efficient that we were able to plan our trip by the minute. Form Visp to Zermatt was another hour of train ride. But this time around, the terrain was different. After a few minutes leaving Visp, we were suddenly in the middle of the mountains and before long, rivers started to appear. It was totally bucolic and Beethoven’s Pastoral (the 6th Symphony) started playing in my head; interesting how music can encapsulate images in sound.
ZIPPING PAST ZERMATT
Arriving in Zermatt, there was a quick change in temperature. Even in the middle of summer, there was a certain nippiness. Simona, from the Zermatt Tourism Board came to greet us with the hotel representative. He gathered our lauggages and hauled them of in a vehicle I have never seen before (all the other vehicles look the same way). A little questioning revealed that it is an electric car. They maybe up the mountains, but they have certainly kept abreast, if not more advance; research says that they’ve had electric cars since the 1940s. As we made our way through the crowd, we sat in a restaurant along the street, and just as we were perusing the menu, a horse-drawn carriage suddenly turned up. What made it more attractive even from afar were the bells on the horses. I literally heard them first before I saw them. As it drew near, I was half-expecting Santa Claus or an elf pulling on the reins. But alas, it was only a gentleman in a suit. Who knew we landed in a formal Christmas Village.
After a lunch of veal sausage and potatoes, which was really tasty, Simona took us on a little tour of Zermatt. Apparently, where we were was the center of town. In fact, that street full of people was the one and only main street. As we walked to a narrower street opposite the restaurant, the crowd suddenly disappeared. And all of a sudden, we were in the Hinter Dorf or the old village area, surrounded by wood houses with what looked to me like shale roofs. I actually noticed them on the houses in our train ride from Visp and I kept thinking to myself, “Why is it that the shales don’t slide down?” It is a piece of rock after all, and when rained on, can be slippery.
The old village was absolutely charming because I felt the history and authenticity of the place. These buildings were used, not only as places of residences during the early times, but also as work and storage areas where farmers keep their dried meats, grains and tools. There were a number of houses that have been turned into art galleries.
Simona had a trick question for our group. Pointing to the disks that were placed around the stilts of the houses, she asked, “What do you think these are for?” Coming from the Philippines where a similar practice is done by our countrymen in the Cordilleras, I answered, “To keep the mice and rodents out. When they climb, they fall off once they invert themselves when they get to the disk.” She was quite surprised I knew the answer. It only proved to me that people can think in parallel ways, no matter one’s location.
As we rounded the corner, we came upon a church with a conical roof, very much like the roofs we have seen all through the different countries we have traveled in Europe. It reminded me of Paris as he tries to rival Romeo for the love of Juliet. And our hotel was at the very corner.
Hotel Monte Rosa couldn’t have been more perfect. It was the very first hotel in Zermatt and is named after the highest peak in the Alps’ terrain. It is a boutique hotel which has been upgraded to 21st century standards and has some of the most quaint appointments of a fine luxury hotel.
The most amazing feature of my suite is my step-out balcony. As I opened the French doors, a whiff of cool Alpine air rushed in, and when I stepped out, lo and behold, Pfarrkirche St. and Mauritius Church were just to my left. It was like time travel to the medieval age. And to make the scenario more perfect, mountain goats, complete with shepherd children, maybe pre-teens, all in the same outfit, were making their way through the only main road in Zermatt. If I didn’t know any better, I would say there was a play going on and we didn’t even know we were in it. Apparently, this was a daily occurrence, because the next day, at exactly the same time, these mountain goats were back and they again were being herded, but by older men. All these may sound unbelievable, because I myself couldn’t believe what I was seeing and hearing.
MATTERHORN, THE MAGNIFICENT
The day started out foggy. We got out of the hotel and walked to the train station, making sure we did not forget our umbrellas. The constant drizzle in the afternoon the day before served as a warning for the day’s weather. Finally finding the train station, we jumped in it for the ride to Gornergrat. According to Simona, this is where the best view of Matterhorn can be seen.
For half an hour, we watched as the train lurched its way up the mountain; it’s a 30-degree incline up the mountains. It was so foggy, there were instances when visibility was reduced to zero. After a few hours, we finally reached Gornergrat and the reward was phenomenal. Right before our very eyes was Matterhorn. To behold it right before me was short of a spiritual experience. There it was, the triangular peak, playing hide and seek as the clouds passed through, covering, unveiling, exposing, obscuring and unveiling the sight again. People were in all sorts of stance trying to get the best angle, the clearest shot, the perfect image of this iconic mountain. And yes, I was on the look out for the perfect Toblerone shot. I must say, Simona had our interests piqued when she slyly inserted in our conversation the day before, “This is where you get the Toblerone shot!” But a simple online research debunks that Matterhorn was the inspiration for the shape of the candy. No matter what, I was still in awe of its magnificence. Indeed, nature can put you in place and I suddenly realized that I was puny compared to the majesty of these mountains.
After a few more rounds of selfies and photography, we decided to trek to the structure that we can see up from where we were. It was a slow ascent with the aid of metal railings but when we got up to the top, we were rewarded by the sight of a cute little chapel sitting on a plateau. It was the Bernhard von Aost chapel. I entered the chapel to give thanks for this rare opportunity that was given to me, and in deep reflection, I was trying to feel the presence of the divine. I always find it intriguing when people say they feel closer to God when amidst nature, especially when one is up a mountain; well, the cool breeze and the calmness of the place may have something to do with such, but yes, call me oxygen- deprived, there was indeed a certain sense of peace inside that chapel.
On the way down, there was suddenly this guy who appeared from nowhere and was selling his artworks of the famous peak. Laid out on the guide rails are his prints of Matterhorn that actually reminded me of Van Gogh, not because they looked like the strokes of the Dutch master, but because they looked like Japanese wood prints that were Van Gogh’s inspiration. His name is Matthew Fletcher and he is from the United Kingdom. Googling his name, he has been sighted in boloji.com, Trip Advisor and even Nat Geo Traveler. It’s always a joy to randomly encounter kindred spirits in the arts.
DESCENDED YET STILL DAZZLED
After Gornergrat, we made our way to Klein Matterhorn, or Glacier Paradise as per Simona’s suggestion. After a few transfers from the train to a series of cable car rides, we finally reached the last cable car, and we were brought up, literally brushing the mountain side, to the Klein Matterhorn. Once we stepped-out, it was a different feeling all of a sudden. Of course, we felt the rush of cold air, but there was something disconcerting about the place. While following the people inside the cave pathway, our managing editor was already not looking too stable. We finally get to the restaurant, and as I, together with our photographer were lining up for food, all of us were feeling perturbed to say the least. Then we finally realized it was due to altitude sickness. I almost laughed out loud because I can’t imagine a native of the tropics suddenly brought up to more than 3,800 feet above sea level. From the balmy beaches of the Philippines to the snow- covered mountains of the Alps, how do you explain that to my system? After realizing that we were all being deprived of oxygen, we just wanted to finish lunch and hurry back to the first stop of the cable car. Even the first stop was enough to bring us back to a more stable sense.
It was amazing that, with a few transfers in the cable car, we were able to make our way down to the city, and after a few inquiries and a fair amount of walking, we were back in our hotel. But this was not before we passed by a graveyard with natural-looking tombstones. Apparently, this is a graveyard of the “Unknown Climber.” More than 500 deaths have been recorded since people have started climbing Matterhorn, and sadly, not everyone is able to make it back down. The memorial was established by a guide, Harry Lauber in 2015, to mark the 150th anniversary of the first ascent to Matterhorn.
Now, back on lower ground, I realize that my Matterhorn assignment is one that will make a lasting mark in my life. God’s majestly is truly boundless, and to create memories for ourselves while extoling Him is the least we can do for ourselves and the people we affect. In the art community, there is a saying, “Nature is the ultimate artist.” I just saw the ultimate artwork.