Standing in the middle of the Maria Therese Platz, I was trying to imagine the elegant times of the Habsburgs. We are all familiar with the Windsors of the United Kingdom, the Louises of France, maybe even the Romanovs of Russia, but have you ever heard of the Habsburgs (Hapsburgs in English) of Austria?

They once ruled one of the largest empire in Europe for 300 years and I was standing in their elegant square. At the center is the image of the Maria Therese, who was the last Habsburg, and the only woman to rule this empire close to 40 years. Her father, Charles Vl issued the Pragmatic Sanction, one that she’s holding in her hands, allowing her to succeed in his throne because he had no male heir.

Despite the flourishing of Austria during her reign, Maria Therese was somehow connected to the collapse of the French empire; she was the mother of the infamous queen, Marie Antoinette. But the French revolution did not stop the expansion of the Austrian empire. In fact, they even went to attach Hungary, thus the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

This square was very elegant as befitting Maria Therese’s stature. At the bottom of her pillar, on horse-back were her generals, while the ones standing include her doctor; the chancellor of state-what we may call the prime minister; director of artillery or mister of defense; and the one who reformed the economy, or the economic manager.”

Two buildings flanked her square, the Museum of Natural History to the right, where you will find species from nature, even dinosaur bones, and archeological finds. And the Art History Museum to the left. During Advent they have a Christmas Market here where beautiful kiosks that sell traditional Viennese and Christmas items can be found. Schnitzel anyone?

From across the street is the Hofburg. It was the former imperial winter residence of the Habsburgs and is now the official residence and work place of Austria’s president. It’s first buildings were erected in the 13th century and the addition went on ‘til the 19-20th century. In fact, what can be seen from the open plaza, the semi-circular building, is part of the latest addition. In front of it is the statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy defeated the Turks, he has a more stationary stance; and on the other side is Archduke Charles of Teschen, who defeated Napoleon, is in a more active motion. Francis l of Austria said he was, “the only general who can defeat the French.” Interestingly enough, the statue of the Archduke Charles is reminiscent of the painting by Jacques- Louise David “Napoleon crossing the Alps,” the very person he defeated. The only difference is the Archduke has a flag in his hands, Napoleon does not.

Behind all these palatial structures, Maria Therese held grand celebrations. Music by Haydn, Paganini, Liszt, and of course Mozart were all played here by the composers themselves. Even Beethoven’s 8th Symphony was premiered here. In later years, Johann Straus II waltzes brought fun and joy to its residents.

If there is a winter palace, a few kilometers away is the summer palace, or the famous Schonbrunn Palace. This is the place where Fanz Joseph I, who ruled Austria for more than 60 years, lived. He was married to the legendary beauty Elisabeth or Sissi, who in turn was assassinated in Geneva. They were its last occupants.

The name Schönbrunn means beautiful spring and was a gift by Charles the Vl and his wife, Elisabeth Christine of Brunswick (not to be confused with Sissy) to Maria Theresa during her wedding. It really was Maria Therese who brought it to what it is today. It is so massive that the exact number of rooms cannot be determined. It is said that it has between 1250 to 1440 rooms. That striking yellow color outside has been dubbed Maria Theresa Yellow, very appropriate for spring and summer.

Vienna, one of the most elegant cities in Austria if not in Europe, is not in short supply of palaces. Approximately 7 kilometers away from Schonbrunn is the Belvedere Palace. Owned by Prince Eugene of Savoy, the one on stationary horse-back pose in front of the Hofburg, it is actually composed of two palaces.

We started with the Upper Belvedere that had this big open front with a circular fountain. Lo and behold, inside this palace is one of the five versions of the Napoleon painting of him crossing the Alps! I wonder if the Archduke Charles knew about this and how would he have felt about it. The Upper Belvedere maybe a palace, but for some reason, unlike the Schonbrunn and the Hofburg, this has a more homey feel to it. I think it’s because the segmented roofs, thus giving it a more scaled down look than the two other palaces. Nevertheless, I’m still trying to wrap my head around the kind of lifestyle they had thinking I live in an 85 square meter studio.

Be that as it may, when we turned to its side, there was this massive garden. It was so massive, we all felt daunted by its size so we stayed where we were. Little did I realize that, what I thought was a house outside the entire garden, WAS the second palace - the Lower Belvedere!

Punctuated by mythical animal sculptures and trees perfectly trimmed like cones, one needs a hat, or an umbrella if one wants to venture in the middle of the garden or walk to the Lower Belvedere in the summer heat. You most probably will be sweating buckets by the time you get there.

Considered of Neo-Renaissance architecture, the Vienna State Opera House sits at Ringstraße, or Ringstrasse, the prestigious center of Vienna, it is a structure that cannot be missed. As we waddled along grounds of the Vienna State Opera House, whom do we meet? Well, it’s Mozart of course! Didn’t realize he is almost 6’ tall and wore glasses! And guess what, he was selling us tickets for his concert together with Strauss. As he cajoled, and we played coy, we thought, “We’re not exactly dressed for the occasion.” We decided to settle for a tour of the opera house instead.

Arguably the most prestigious opera house in the world, with La Scala of Milan probably as its only rival, the Vienna State Opera House status is unparalleled. Taken to its back stage, it was such a privilege to learn about its “innards” that is seldom seen. We also find out that the they only mount operas and ballets, nothing more. So philharmonic performances and all other performances are done elsewhere like the Wiener Musikverein, Wiener Konzerthaus, and the MuTh or Music und Theater where another Viennese institution holds court, the Vienna Boys Choir. We were then taken to the private box of Franz Joseph, whom we were told hates opera; and his wife Sissi. Goose bumps all over. To observe all the entire opera house from where we were, it was utterly a dream come true. But it was tempered by the image of Franz Joseph making a “French exit,” as the opera rages on, and once the lights open, he’s nowhere to be found. We then head for the Tea Room. This is where the imperial couple entertain guests during the intermissions. The beautiful golden silk embroidered wall panels even has his personal monogram. On the ceiling is an allegorical painting of music. After WW II they had to rebuild this Opera House. Fortunately enough, the Tea Room was one of the areas that survived the war.

Aside from operas and ballets, the Vienna State Opera House is also known for one more prestigious event: the Vienna Opera Ball. One hundred fifty couples descend on the Opera House to dance to the waltz. It started in 1935, but legend has its genesis in 1814 when ambassadors from all over Europe had a meeting and chaired by an Austrian statesman Klemens von Metternich. They celebrated it with dance, but outside the opera house. Through its many birth pains, the prestige of attending the Vienna Opera Ball can surpass any Oscar night, or the Venice Masquerade.

But despite all these prestigious events and activities, the Viennese’s love for art and culture is unparalleled, that’s why prices for the Opera House has always been egalitarian. And to prove this, they have a standing room only area for those who cannot afford the expensive tickets but still want to experience an opera or a ballet. Franz Joseph is quoted as saying, “Our delight for music, and all other forms of art are just equal to those of our citizen.”

After all these art and culture, one gets hungry of some pedestrian eats. Off to find some bruschetta!