Dr. Wine

A Dose of Health and Happiness





At Poblacion’s premier wine bar and restaurant, there are no bitter pills to swallow – this doctor’s medicine goes down all too smoothly.

WORDS BY ANGIE DUARTE
IMAGES BY ANDIE D. SYYAP

My very first visit to the raved-about wine bar-restaurant tucked into a quiet nook of frenzied Poblacion was in the holiday season of 2018. It was the Christmas party of none other than this magazine, and, though I’ve been on the contributing team for over a decade, I thought twice and thrice about going. I had been through a very rough personal patch the month prior, and wasn’t sure if I was up to the hubbub of a social night on the town – smack in the midst of Makati’s maddening holiday traffic, no less.

But as I entered the Third Floor (yes, that’s what it’s called) private dining area of the upscale yet edgy lifestyle haunt Dr. Wine, I almost instantly knew I had made the right decision. It proved a night of intimate camaraderie and cheer, in a classy yet cozy venue, with food and drink that would earn the nod of approval of Epicurus and Bacchus themselves. The revelry-infused night turned out to be just what the doctor ordered, pun most definitely intended. Dr. Wine’s prescription for a happier, healthier heart? Why, fine, fabulous wining and dining, of course.

THE DOCTOR IS MOST DEFINITELY IN
Birthed in Shanghai in 2010, Dr. Wine’s success in Manila has been nothing short of auspicious. In fact, in the two years since its opening on Philippine shores, it has nearly tripled its wine offerings and has expanded its menu from its original roster of cheeses and deli meats to over 35 sophisticated, sumptuous European dishes.

The brains behind the brand, Dr. Wine himself, Frenchman Vincent Landais, first created the concept while living and doing business in Shanghai, also the birthplace of his Kartel Rooftop Bar. In China, he met Filipina businesswoman Eva Marzan, who eventually became Mrs. Landais – or, should we say, Mrs. Dr. Wine. The couple, along with business partners, Jean Philippe Guillot of AWC Wines Philippines and Simon Côté of Apotheke Craft Spirits Co., eventually opened Dr. Wine in Manila in 2017, along with its exclusive dining area simply called Third Floor, as well as Dr. Wine’s spirited (literally!) sibling, Kartel Rooftop Bar, which serves an array of cocktails and stunning views.

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With a rich, 18-year history as a sommelier in the wine industry, including tutelage under no less than the legendary chef Alain Ducasse, Landais’ dream of a place that would showcase not only the finest of wines, but also the lesser known yet equally noteworthy variants, has come to fruition.

“Anybody can open the most expensive bottle of wine if they have the money, but not just anybody can appreciate the wine,” Landais points out, as we chat in a comfy black leather-clad booth on the ground floor of the superbly designed establishment. “It’s very easy to say that expensive wine is ‘good’ – you already know all that from the winemaker, its history, the area it’s from. But when you’ve been a long time in this industry, that’s really not what excites you anymore. You like to find a new winemaker, maybe, who makes wine not for the money, but primarily still for the passion.”

It is refreshing to hear this, as the word “sommelier” normally conjures visions of stern-faced, bordering on snooty wine experts, garbed in stiflingly severe formal wear. Landais, with his pulled-together, smart-casual appearance and approachable demeanor, tears down all those stereotypes. His bright eyes grow even more brilliant as he clues me in on his mission: “The main goal really is to find, for the right price, a very good wine. That is the challenge and the mission – that is what Dr. Wine loves doing. The pleasure of finding a new, good wine from small winemakers is the real job of a sommelier.”

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REMEDY FOR YOUR ILLS AND AILMENTS
I’m no expert, but I do love a glass of good wine. And, wine is deemed worthy not only for its complexity and balance, or the price it commands, or for its terroir and heritage, but also for its benefits to the drinker.

Landais enthuses, “We chose the name Dr. Wine when we were in China because the Chinese are very into traditional medicine, which is always about eating and drinking something that is good for your body and for your health. So, we picked up on this, and the name was born. Because we all know that really good wine has so many health benefits for you!” Historically, no less than famed French microbiologist and chemist, Louis Pasteur hailed wine as “the healthiest and most health-giving of drinks.”

Dr. Wine’s medicine chest, then, is stockpiled with remedies: the bar showcases over 200 carefully curated bottles, from wine regions across the globe – Old and New World, alike – with a slight leaning towards French wines. “After all, I am still French,” Landais jovially exclaims. Bottles range from just under a thousand pesos, to well-into the thousands, with one of the oldest vintages being the 1996 Chateaux Margaux, alongside surprising newer discoveries from South Africa, New Zealand and Portugal, to name a few countries of origin. The costliest wine on the roster, perhaps is the Château Lafite Rothschild, a 1998 vintage from Pauillac, Bordeaux in France, which can be had at an eye-popping P99,000 a bottle.

While you are free to order as you please, should you need a helping hand, in-house sommelier Charles Seguin would be more than happy to “prescribe” a bottle for whatever ails you. Aside from the almost astounding array of wines, the bar boasts of an equally impressive selection of spirits. And, for a breath of fresh air and a panoramic view of the surrounding neighborhood, you can always head on up to Kartel Rooftop Bar. Landais points out that Kartel’s annual New Year’s Eve party is nothing short of legendary, with a 360-degree vantage point of the city’s fireworks, to boot.

NOT YOUR AVERAGE CLINIC - IT’S YOUR WELLNESS RETREAT
A visit to this particular doctor’s “clinic” is, indeed, a highly pleasant experience. As a matter of fact, the enjoyment of your experience is something that Landais cites among his top three priorities for Dr. Wine, Third Floor, and Kartel with overall quality and service being the other two aspects. Every inch of the venue has been meticulously designed by Landais to exude a warm, welcoming, and soothing ambiance. The Third Floor private dining room, meanwhile, affords a more intimate feel, with its own kitchen and living area flanking a large, 16-seater wooden table. Up on the rooftop, Kartel gives off that same rustic, industrial feel, in a more easygoing atmosphere, under starlit skies and city skylines.

No prescription at Dr. Wine is ever truly “filled” without a sampling of its scrumptious European culinary offerings. With talented and hospitable Belgian-French chef Julien Lecomte at the helm, the menu brims with French gastronomy at its finest.

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“We are very much focused on platters for sharing. At first, we started with a lot of cold cuts and cheeses, but last year we came out with a much more complete menu, but still on the bistro side. We now offer more main and hot dishes, typical in the spirit of the Parisian bistro and the Parisian wine bar,” Lecomte points out.

Chef Julien starts off our “treatment” with an appetite-opening Tuna & Shrimp Delicacy Salad, a marvelous medley of succulent tuna chunks, “mi cuit” or half cooked, with a gorgeous pan-sear on the outside, but juicy and fresh on the inside, grilled shrimps, sundried tomatoes, ripe mango slices, and roasted pine nuts over a bed of salad greens. On its heels comes the Traditional Steak Tartare, raw tenderloin beef “a la minute,” prepared the customary way with egg yolk, seasoning and assorted condiments, served with fries. The dish that follows proves my favorite – Lapu-Lapu “A La Bruxelloise” which is not only a nod to Lecomte’s culture, but also a truly delightful flavor adventure of plump lapu-lapu fish fillets and shrimps, swathed in a savory thick sauce of carrots and leeks, topped with fried fennel. To satiate the more carnivorous hankerings, the bestselling Braised Australian Lamb Shank, marinated for 24 hours in red wine and herbs, then slowly cooked for another four hours, is indeed a must-try. The almost decadent flavors of this dish become even more indulgent with a side order of Stir Fry French Beans with Shallots and Bacon Bites. The final step to this incredible food fix is, of course, dessert – a divine concoction of chocolate custard, topped with whipped cream, a Belgian wafer, and a sprinkling of pink peppercorns known as the Doctor’s Stairway to Heaven.

Aside from their exciting new menu, Dr. Wine highlights the finest in local and imported seafood (think: lobster from Maine and oysters from France, among others!) at its Sunday Brunch. And, soon to open, Dr. Bread! Be still, my carbohydrate-loving heart. This new venture, right next door to Dr. Wine, will serve a range of artisanal, freshly baked breads very soon.

It began with a vision to make good wines accessible to the market, in the interests of health and of wine education. It has morphed into a sanctuary that helps heal not only the body, but also the soul.

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