I’m Angus
Full, Prime Flavors
For a over a decade now, this dining destination has been delighting foodies and gourmands alike, with exquisite, real Certified Angus Beef steaks and a wide array of sumptuous treats.
WORDS BY VIC SEVILLA
IMAGES BY GABRIEL DELA CRUZ
To step inside the cool interiors of I’m Angus is to escape the bustling streets of Makati. Established in 2009 by the prolific chef patron Mr. Werner Berger, I’m Angus is a peaceful refuge that has an intimate air about it.
A MOST WARM WELCOME
I entered via the compact but well- lit bar, Cave Werdenberg, a perfect place for an aperitif. Round wooden tables sitting on barrels gleam under the light, suggesting that connoisseurs of premium wines and spirits will be at home here. Two bottles with the label Cave Werdenberg lay embedded in a background of corks and framed as a wall décor. In a corner, the wall is decorated by wooden signs with imprints of the labels from the best chateaus from Bordeaux.
From the wine bar, I had a quick tour at the restaurant’s Back Room. I must say this area is ideal for private gatherings. I also saw similar wine crates on the leftmost corner – which I learned contain actual bottles of wine. Interestingly, these wines are also found in I’m Angus wine premium wine list from nine different countries, mostly from Europe’s most revered houses.
In the main dining area, the rectangular tables are dressed in white cloths, with handsome wooden chairs that are nearly architectural in design. In some portions, the walls are lined with the conspicuous wine logos.
“I’m Angus has a classy and elegant interior that is rustic at the same time,” says Nadj Villaver, the restaurant’s public relations and marketing manager. It communicates a sense of stylishness, but with a warm and welcoming atmosphere.
If the ambience at I’m Angus mollycoddles the senses and soothes the spirit, the taste buds are in for some honest-to-goodness indulgence. Indeed, the restaurant’s name isn’t simply a moniker to catch the attention of the curious — it is a declaration of the authenticity of the beef it serves: real certified Angus.
CERTIFIED AND AUTHENTIC ANGUS
At I’m Angus, the meats, flown in from the United States, have been certified to meet strict quality standards of Certified Angus Beef. And get this, less than 8% of all beef earns the brand’s premium name. The beef comes from Angus cattle that is celebrated by gourmets for its well marbled meat that ensures consistently fine texture, juiciness and flavor.
Executive chef Leo Marquez, who has had 34 years of experience with the company, knows how to handle this prime commodity.
“Such prized meats should be handled well – from defrosting, to the seasoning, through to the way it is cooked. Another big difference that sets us apart is that we use a particular charcoal and beech wood from Switzerland for grilling our steaks,’’ he discloses. “The smoke from the beech wood brings out the natural savory flavor of the steak and lends it with a rich smoky flavor.”
To further preserve the integrity of the beef, Chef Leo uses only salt and pepper to flavor the meat. He reasons, “Certified Angus Beef has a very delicate flavor. If we use artificial seasoning to add flavor to the meat, the seasoning will overpower the natural flavor of the meat. Any other kind of seasoning is bad for the steak.” The restaurant thus serves different cuts – tenderloin, striploin, rib eye, porterhouse and the oversized Tomahawk Steak which is about a kilo per piece.
But this afternoon, he brought out a big chunk of rib eye. The 12-ounce steak was perfectly grilled and gleaming in its own juices. Cradled in a wire basket were large potato wedges, and gathered on the side were seasonal vegetables. The steak, tender as expected, emphasized the meat’s rich savory flavor. Now, that was a meal! Or so I thought.
When the kitchen doors opened, the waiter came out cradling the famous I’m Angus Burger. The grilled chunky patty sat on a sesame seed bun, crowned with a juicy tomato slice and a curl of bacon rasher. Beside this hefty sandwich are perfectly-fried onion rings and French fries inside the ubiquitous wire fryer. The beef patty was tremendously tasty, probably owing to the fact that the ground beef is a Certified Angus Beef
Self-avowed carnivores and Angus steak aficionados would be ecstatic to know that I’m Angus holds a weekly special every Wednesday and Saturday. Called Prime Rib Night, diners will get to enjoy a 300-gram hunk of prime rib with salad and one side dish of their choice and a glass of wine, all for the great deal of only P1,280.00.
MORE CHOICE OFFERINGS
While the irresistibly juicy Angus steaks and burger form the foundation of the restaurant’s raison d’etre and popularity, I’m Angus is an inclusive steakhouse that has something special for non-meat eaters. Apart from steaks, it also serves grilled Chilean sea bass, Norwegian salmon, Maine lobsters, and prawns.
But for us, Chef Leo prepared the eye-pleasing Seared Tuna Piri-Piri, which are cubed mahi tuna fillets that have been lightly grilled, brushed with traditional African piri-piri sauce (a spicy concoction made with different chili varieties). It is served with vegetables on the side and, to add yet more zing to the fish, a dollop of wasabi mayo.
Crazy for pork? Gourmands who are more inclined to enjoy pork need not fret. I’m Angus also serves what is acknowledged as the “the black Angus of pork,” the flavorful US-Duroc, which can be enjoyed as a grilled chop or if you fancy, there is also an order of barbecued baby back rib slab.
A SURPRISING (BITTER)SWEET ENDINGS
To top these rich flavors of meat and fish, pastry chef Erwin Manes regaled our taste buds with a pretty après dinner sweet: a generous slice of the luscious Bittersweet Strawberry Cake. I was expecting a pink, frilly dessert, but Chef Erwin came out with a plate of rich brown cake, with candy flowers and a strawberry on top. He points out, “This is a moist chocolate sponge cake with chocolate in between.”
Passionate about chocolates, Chef Erwin uses mostly the Maracaibo variety for its full-bodied flavor. For him, desserts at I’m Angus should not just stand alone, but must provide the balance between the savory flavors of meat and fish, and the subtle sweetness of an after- dinner treat.
“I want to create desserts that would complement the steaks and the wine. Bitter chocolate cakes, a hot chocolate dessert, and the best New York cheesecake would go well with the wines and steaks,” he suggests.
Of course, one could always end this vivid medley of flavors with any of the restaurant’s digestive — those heady liqueurs designed to round off an abundant dinner such as the one I just enjoyed. Probably next time.
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