It’s a sizzling afternoon, typical of a Manila summer. Any place with an air conditioner is quickly abuzz with people fixing for a respite from the searing heat. I’m just part of the herd. It’s been two whole days since the forecasted arrival of the rainy season, so it’s safe to assume the experts on climate change will be busy holding court. The weather isn’t the only thing that’s changing, though. The walk to High Street isn’t as I remembered. Then again, it seems there’s always something under construction in BGC. Every few weeks, up pops a new building. Roads and bridges are always being tweaked. Barreling towards the standard of the first world, the whole of Bonifacio Global City is in a constant state of metamorphosis. Luckily, I’m not among those needing to rush back to the office from lunch break. Instead, I’m heading to Central Square to meet Bambi and Patrick, who know a thing or two about building things that last in the middle of unrelenting change.

Meer, Tanjangco, Tenchavez, Santos: four families woven together by friendship and good food. What initially started as a simple meat shop in Subic almost three decades ago is now a collection of a flourishing array of American comfort food. Even more impressive is that the four families continue to operate harmoniously, even though it’s now the next generation that’s taken the reigns.

“Our dads used to bike around the village together as kids. That’s how far back our families go. The big villages in Makati were still just getting started at the time,” said Patrick Tanjangco, now in charge of the group’s back office.

“Just like our dads, we grew up around each other,” added Bambi Meer. “We saw how our parents always made sure to prioritize the friendship. The relationship they shared always came ahead of the business. No decisions were ever made unless everyone was on board. That may have had an effect on how quickly the business grew, but it was always how they operated. For us, it’s the same. There’s an expectation to put friendship first. So whatever disagreements we may have as a group, there’s always a bit of pressure to iron things out quickly.”

It’s not difficult to settle into the conversation with the pair. Despite being in the belly of BGC, right in Central Square, Fireside seems a space removed from Manila’s unavoidable bustle.

“We wanted it to be as if you were in a cabin in Baguio. There’s a fire burning and everyone’s just hanging out, telling stories and eating good food,” Bambi explained.

In our case, there’s a mango mojito to accompany the discussion. Our meal begins with the restaurant’s most popular dish. Like its close sibling, Kettle, Fireside’s Fried Chicken is a firm favorite. Cooked in buttermilk, served with cornbread doughnuts, gravy and some syrup, it’s the fulfillment of every kid’s dining dreams.

“Initially we were thinking about just steaks and meat, but what’s everyone’s favorite food growing up? Fried chicken. We decided to include it in the menu last minute,” Bambi laughed. “We gave it a try and it’s been one of our most popular dishes. Everyone loves fried chicken.”