Single Origin
The Champion Of Breakfasts
There’s a new contender in town for the best breakfast fare available in the metro
WORDS BY JERRICHO REYNALDO
IMAGES BY EMMAN PEREGRIN
Tables lined with laptops and documents, plates stacked alongside newspapers and magazines, and the scribbling of pens being the motif of the symphonic clatter of coffee cups – such is the usual morning scene in the posh and urban corner of Taguig known as Bonifacio Global City. As it is, there’s no mistaking the breakfast crowd of this locale, for it closely resembles those of the world’s other famed business cities.
To one of the city’s newest restaurants, however, there’s no such thing as a breakfast crowd, for through its doors pass a multitude of guests – from city-dwellers to business executives – in search of breakfast fare all day throughout the week, which include classics like pancakes and sausages. I then found myself among their number one Monday, before me a generous plate of toasts, eggs, and bacon, in what would turn out to be a prelude to the world of the morning gastronomic routine, and an introduction to its defending champion, Single Origin.
BEHIND SINGLE ORIGIN
“Single-origin coffee is coffee grown within a single known geographic origin. Sometimes this is a single farm, or a specific collection of beans from a single country.” This was the introduction chosen by Single Origin owner Carlo Lorenzana to get me acquainted with his rising establishment, which was loftily posted in a prominent corner of his restaurant. It then goes without saying that this definition must ring true in every cup of coffee served to the diners, who kick-start their day with a warm sip of the world drink.
Thanks to Carlo, Single Origin proudly serves the Lamill brand of coffee and tea, which means quality and palatable perfection in every stir. And diners, or drinkers in this case, may choose their preferred blend of coffee and the extraction method to be used for the drink. To start my experience of Single Origin, then, I was served an inviting cup of cappucino, accentuated by a carefully crafted foam art on its brim. As I savored every ounce of the creation, the owner remarked on the constant reminder he instills upon his baristas – that perfection is key and consistency is crucial. I could sense the agreement from everyone in the room, their fingers keeping their hold on their very own works of drinkable art.
Aside from espresso and espresso beverages, Single Origin also serves a variety of hot and iced teas, as well as specialty drinks such as Masala Chai Milk Tea (Indian Assam tea blended with traditional Masala curry spices, milk and sugar) and Green Mojito (muddled fresh mint, organic green tea, lime juice, and soda, served without alcohol unless requested). And as Single Origin caters to the hungry crowd well past midnight every night, a selection of alcohol could not be kept out of the menu, craft and breakfast cocktails included.
While I was midway through my drink, the accompanying dish I had been looking forward to arrived: the English Plate, which had home-made bacon, English sausage and scrambled egg, along with mustard, brioche and a side salad, had the makings of a typical comfort food, especially when served warm from the kitchen. In beautiful portions, the sweet tang of the bacon embraced the spiced flavors of the sausage, with the creamy eggs melding the plate together into a wonderful frenzy of tastes. I knew I was in for more, so I set my plate aside as soon as I was done to welcome the next round of dishes, this time served by the executive chef himself.
A BIT OF EAST AND WEST COMBINED
The man behind the food is Chef Jay Saycon, who has worked with Carlo since the restaurant was conceptualized in February 2015, leading up to its opening in September of the same year. An alumnus of the Culinary Institute of America, Chef Jay has every right to call his cuisine Western-inspired, except that he had given many of his creations their own twists, making them uniquely that of Single Origin.
The next dish he had me try was the Shrimp Po Boy, a burger with deep fried shrimp in the middle, dressed in honey mayo dressing and served with truffle potato chips. It’s an absolute treat, as the burger was overflowing with the crispy-but-succulent shrimp pieces enrobed in the rich yellow sauce. As it was first in the sandwiches menu, I asked Chef Jay if this was one of his bestsellers. He pondered on the question a bit, only to say that he doesn’t consider any dish on his menu as a bestseller, for each one has its own strengths and its own set of patrons.
We will have to watch out, then, for the next contender, which was Truffled Egg Baked Spinach Mushroom and Rice Casserole. New to the menu, the casserole is Single Origin’s answer to numerous requests from regulars for a rice-based dish which is true to the flavors of the establishment. A savory bowl of flavored rice is tossed with spinach, mushroom and other ingredients, before being topped with a perfectly poached egg, its thick yolk flowing into the middle of the ramekin. I took a small bite and I knew what was to come, for the casserole would appeal to both Filipinos and foreign diners as it had both the ingredients of the east and the techniques of the west.
I had a chat with Chef Jay about executing a properly poached egg, him sharing the secrets he learned from the Institute, when he unwittingly shared one of his prized tenets: “You can cook this now, but can you cook this a thousand times?” I realized that this resonated well with Carlo’s principles on consistency, and that the workmanship these two have has buried its roots deep into their friendship. No wonder they make such good food and drinks, I said to myself.
DESSERTS FOR BREAKFAST
While I’ve had my fill of savory dishes and a bit of drinks on the side, I’ve yet to try the restaurant’s popular sweet cuisine, which I heard is popular among kids and kids-at-heart. Carlo had the kid-in-me try the Mixed Berry Waffle, while Chef Jay served before the fun-loving writer that I am the Salted Caramel Choco A La Mode French Toast.
The Mixed Berry Waffle featured two pieces of 5” by 5”-sized house specialties, served with a selection of plump and juicy strawberries, blackberries and blueberries, before being topped with whipped butter and Vermont maple syrup. While there is something obviously familiar with the dish, the waffles are uniquely given their due relish with fresh fruits and topnotch ingredients that bedeck them.
A worthy opponent, meanwhile, is the Salted Caramel Choco A La Mode French Toast, which was a timely answer to the slowly rising morning heat of the city. The dessert had the perfect contrast, which was between the crunchy heat of the light, fluffy cubes of toast and the smooth iciness of the vanilla ice cream, and also possessed the delicate balance of salty and sweet.
While I was debating on which dessert I liked more, a lively conversation on politics ensued between Carlo and Chef Jay, not on the capabilities of the then-running candidates, or the repercussions of the eventual vote, but on the effect of leadership on the production and consumption of breakfast fare. I knew then that breakfast was in safe hands at Single Origin, so I handed both gourmands a glass of Classic Mimosa each, and invited them to a toast to the future of local cuisine. This, I figured, was a fitting end to a bout of massive portions and proportions, where the winner will always be us, the diners, or in this case, the ever-eating breakfast crowd.
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