While its buttermilk fried chicken has emerged to superstar status, Kettle definitely has much more hearty things to offer, to satisfy all your cravings.
WORDS BY CHRIS CRUZ
IMAGES BY DON OCO
A morning sea-green ladies’ bicycle hanging on the wall is the last thing I’d associate with a place that has earned a reputation as one of the best fried chicken restaurants in the city. Nor does its name – Kettle – as the images conjured in my head were of merrily boiling potages, stews and teas, of cauldrons heaped with steaming, gleaming shanks of pork and beef on open fires. Instead, I found myself in an airy café of glass and faux bricks, with wooden chairs and soft highbacked couches. The whole place had a French patisserie vibe. There was even a lean-to chest-height chiller for craft beers and cakes. Above dangled wineglasses on a sea-green frame the same color as the bicycle, which housed various wine bottles and assorted plants in vases and pots.
Lamberto ‘Bambi’ Meer, one of Kettle’s owners came in to share more of Kettle’s story. “A lot of people were saying when we chose the name Kettle, it was all about the act of boiling water,” he begins. “But then, we were thinking more of our logo – it’s the kettle where you stock soup in. It’s something where you cook things really slow with patience, you just let everything simmer together and all the flavors just grow into each other. It took us a while to put the dishes and the concept together.”
Together with his partners Patrick Tanjangco and Chef Chiloy Santos, Meer got Kettle off the ground in 2013. “We opened our first branch six years ago back in Shangri-La Plaza East Wing in Mandaluyong. When the East Wing opened, we opened with them. What you see now with the colors, they’re new, and we’re adding all new elements. We’re tweaking the look to freshen up the brand.”
Kettle was really something that came up from out of the blue. “Our group had gotten our start in the restaurant business with Meat Plus and then Tender Bob’s,” continues Meer. “We saw an opportunity when we were meeting with the management of Shangri-La. They said the East Wing was coming up. They wanted us to submit a concept if we were interested in expanding. So, chef Chiloy Santos and I sat down and talked about it.”
“We initially wanted a sandwich bar,” Meer recounted. “While we were doing R&D on the dishes, Chef Chiloy came up with the buttermilk fried chicken recipe. Now, our kitchen was really designed for sandwiches since that was the goal, but the bestseller became the chicken. We found ourselves within the first two months after reengineering our kitchen to make more room for additional fryers to dish out the chicken, instead of the sandwiches.”
“We never meant for the chicken to be the bestseller,” adds Chef Chiloy. “It was accidental. We were supposed to remove the fried chicken from the menu, just a few days before we launched the restaurant. But then, we weren’t able to remove it because the menus were printed already so we figured, okay, let’s just try it out. When we opened Kettle, after two weeks, we found out our best-seller was the fried chicken.”
They’ve since been getting some serious recognition for that buttermilk fried chicken recipe. In 2017, Esquire Philippines gave them a place in their 24 Essential Fried Chicken Restaurants in Manila. Nolisoli of Inquirer Group put them among the top chicken places of 2019. Now, here in their SM Aura restaurant in Taguig, I was about to see for myself what the fuss was all about.
Tanjangco asks me to pick my poison to get lunch started, and I find my curiosity piqued by a bottle of Hefeweisen Handcrafted Beer, a label I had never seen before. Its light and frisky mouthfeel went well with a refreshing heady briskness normally associated with wheat beer. I would realize, to no surprise, that this brew would go well with virtually everything I was eating later on.
We got the ball rolling with some Hot Spinach Jalapeno Dip with garlic and freshly made nacho chips. They do not scrimp on the cheese, or on any other goodies. This was followed by the Pork Pot Strips, a towering mountain of fried potato strips with tiny pork slices, fried basil sprinkled with paprika and homemade Cajun seasoning, and served with red pepper aioli dip. This dish is more fun to eat with your fingers.
Kani Crunch Salad with mango chili yoghurt dressing, boiled egg, red and white cabbage, romaine lettuce and wanton strips dusted with nori powder. Definitely a dish for weight watchers or those who are looking for something healthy. The crunch was provided by both the fried wanton strips and the cabbage and lettuce.
One thing I marveled about was how the food was perfect for all ages. Normally, restaurants usually have a kid’s menu as an alternative to the otherwise outsized or weird-looking-or-tasting dishes (in a child’s opinion) that adults crave. Things like the Spinach Jalapeno Dip and the Pork Pot Strips would be fantastic in a children’s party, but just as equally welcome among office workers sharing a drink or old friends getting together to reminisce over a bottle of pinot grigio.
A meaty Clam Chowder of potatoes, carrots and an almost illegal amount of cream served in a crispy bread bowl came next. I started noticing a pattern – no matter what was served, there was always something crunchy in the dish. In this instance, it was the bread of the bread bowl – I found myself tearing chunks of the bread to dip into the chewy, hearty soup. The crisp bread contrasted quite nicely with the chowder’s richness.
The main courses came like a fried freight train. The dishes came in quick succession. The Steak Frites – medium rare slices of steak with double fried French fries, butter, mustard, parsley and herb sauce started things off, with pink, juicy beef done just right and the fries crisp as dawn.
But the moment I had been waiting for had finally arrived – my chance to try the BFC Platter, their signature buttermilk fried chicken served with corn muffins, gravy and Chef Chiloy’s spiced honey. I would sample the fried chicken in neat little bites, first plain, then with a bit of the gravy drizzled on it, then with the honey and finally both the honey and gravy together. I must say, all four combinations worked out exceedingly well, although my personal preference is savory over sweet. That said, the honey and gravy combination is a work of brilliance – the sweetness of the honey becomes but a footnote while the gravy washes over it and turns it into a spicy mélange of flavor. As for the muffins, The Gambler himself would come down from Nashville for a bite, if he’d ever tried one.
No sooner than that, the KClub Sandwich arrived. A club sandwich of buttermilk fried chicken with fresh tomato slices, lettuce and mayo served with more fried potato strips, the KClub is big enough for either three normal-sized people for dinner or one Olympic athlete’s merienda. Another chicken variant was the Orange BFC – orange buttermilk fried chicken served with linguini and an orange slice garnish is like a Chinese sweet and sour done American-style. Personally, I’m not too fond of sweet and sour dishes, but for this, I’d make an exception, as the BFC goes well with the al dente linguini.
As if to assuage myself of all the guilt of trying all that fried evil goodness, the Miso Glazed Salmon with green tea soba noodles was served. This dish and the desserts were the only things that weren’t crunchy, but oh-so-sumptuous nonetheless, with the thick slab of salmon having the right balance of seasoning to complement the delicate hint of green tea in the summer-style cold soba noodles, sans ice.
Speaking of dessert, it came as a trifecta of toothsomeness in the form of a Chocolate Malt Cake, Ube Cake and Carrot Cake. The Chocolate Malt Cake was a winner, using a local version of Malteser chocolate malt balls by Goya but the Carrot Cake had that ambrosial verve much like Food for the Gods. However, the scene-stealer was the Ube Cake, tasting like fresh ube (and anyone who knows what fresh ube tastes like knows it’s as different from regular ube as Tobey Maguire’s Spider-Man is from Tom Holland’s – you can like both but they’re different either way) in mousse-like cream form.
I wouldn’t recommend eating all of that in one sitting lest it send you into a food coma.
It’s truly a food fight at the Kettle Koral, and it hits the spot, bullseye.