FABULOUS FLAVORS ON PARADE
I am excited as the dishes come out of the cozy, well-stocked kitchen. If there is one thing I have come to know about Chef Neil, it is that he can transform even the most ordinary of food into a showstopping culinary creation. He is an artist, a creator of fun, and a designer of fabulous, flavor-forward, subtly sensual Filipino food.

Take the bestselling Adobo Project, for instance. While the soy-and-vinegar-based Filipino staple typically consists of meat simmered in sauce and seasoning, Neil’s take on this features chunks of pork cooked two ways – grilled and fried, then coated in a rich, soy-vinegar sauce with a light sweetness to it. The flavor-rich, tender pork is topped with shredded, deep-fried chicken, and served with rice and an array of local condiments like finely slivered mango and cucumber with a light sour cream dressing, ensalada (tomato, onion, and salted egg salad), and atchara (pickled green papaya). As adobos go, there are likely as many versions as there are families in the country (I kid you not, each household seems to have its own take on what many consider our national dish), but Neil’s is most definitely a standout. With its unique texture and taste, the Adobo Project is a perfect representation of the diversity and complexity, as well as the reassuring familiarity, of Filipino food as a whole.

Another Filipino dish to which Neil has given his trademark twist is the Black Palabok. This intriguing menu offering is a gourmet version of the all-time favorite merienda food – and by version, I mean it is a rather far-removed but oh-so-tasty iteration of the original. Imagine: al-dente fettucine noodles swathed in a rich squid ink sauce, topped with fried calamari and tofu chunks, boiled egg, chopped onions, and crushed pork rind. While it may seem nothing like its orange-sauce covered rice noodle counterpart, this daring diva of a dish employs similar elements (pasta, seafood, sauce, and condiments) and delivers the same gustatory satisfaction as its more traditional cousin. Have it with a serving of Tokwa & Seafood on the side; the appetite-opening concoction of tofu chunks and steamed seafood in a lightly seasoned vinaigrette provides a nice balance to the decadent richness of the black pasta sauce.

Then there’s the homey “Chicken of the South,” Alabang Fried Chicken with gravy rice, which typifies the laidback southern vibe in every bite. This scrumptious dish showcases golden battered, juicy chicken cutlets fried to crisp perfection with a side of steamed gravy-infused rice with mushroom bits, a portion of macaroni salad, and a helping of thick gravy.

And while it is a rather worn way of putting it, when at Neil’s Kitchen, save room for dessert. Make room for it, because Neil’s sweet creations are an absolute must. The Fried Suman, Mangga & Chocnut is not only a specialty of the house, but also my personal fave meal-ender. This sticky-sweet combo of fried glutinous rice rolls, topped with chunks of fresh, ripe mango and locally-made crushed peanut chocolate candy, served with a dollop of thick coconut cream, is a gorgeous indulgence well-worth every single delectable calorie.